Semana Santa, a week pertaining to family values, surging crowds and relentless religious ceremonies for most Spaniards in Andalucía, provides the rest of us with the perfect opportunity to hit the road and let the good times roll.
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Moreover, this year’s holy week is shaping up to be one of the driest in recent years; temperatures are rising and the rain, at last, is beginning to retreat.
It’s the perfect time to travel, no doubt about it, and where better to go than a glorious, tranquil and sun-drenched beach town on the south coast?
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So here, without any further ado, are five of my personal recommendations, spanning all four of Andalucía’s shorelines…
One: Los Caños de Meca, Costa de la Luz
Deep in the Parque Natural del Acantilado, Caños de Meca has several stunning beaches, backed by rocky overhangs and sweet-smelling pine trees. As recently as a decade ago this sleepy beach town was barely known, but nowadays it lures tourists and people from all over the country, and its fair share of scraggly-bearded surfer dudes too.
There are lots of great restaurants serving delicious and reasonably priced food, and a wide selection of busy bars which stay open until late at night. The beaches are all wonderful, white, sandy and frankly unforgettable.
The village is well off the beaten track and must be reached via one of the small side roads off the CN340 coast road or by taking the minor road through the forest from Barbate. There are a range of accommodation options, including camping, so that you can stay for as long as you want. But remember, Semana Santa is just a week…
Two: Maro, Costa del Sol
Playa de Maro (Source)
Famous for its selection of white, sandy beaches, transparent water and the impressive views from the Balcón de Europa, Nerja is known to many a sun-worshipping beach bum. Lesser known among tourists though, is the neighbouring village of Maro, whose beaches and laid-back village vibes are often passed up. Tourists flock in droves daily to see the nearby caves, but after an hour or two of sightseeing it’s often just back onto the bus to Nerja.
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Maro beach is worth staying for. Quieter, smaller and ever so slightly pebblier, it is set between two cliffs and overlooked by an old, crumbling Moorish watchtower. The water is teeming with tropical fish, making it an excellent spot for snorkelling.
It’s the perfect location if you’d like to escape the crowds by day but still be a short distance away each time you want to enjoy an evening out.
Three: Zahara de los Atunes, Costa de la Luz
Like Caños de Meca, Zahara de los Atunes has experienced a lot of change over the last few years, but thankfully the place has retained all its natural beauty and laid-back feel. Crystal-clear waters, fine, white sand and an assortment of lively, freshly caught tuna flogging chiringuitos (beach bars) make it one of the most popular beach hangouts on the south coast.
Four: Salobreña, Costa Tropical
Cliff jumping in Salobreña (Source)
The Granada province isn’t well-known for its breathtaking beaches, since most are too pebbly and crowded, but there are a few that deserve more credit. Salobreña is the perfect place to go just for the day, taking only 45 minutes to reach by car from Granada. There are other beach towns nearby on the Costa Tropical but in my experience none have quite the same ambience often created at Salobreña.
There are some superb, grilled-seafood restaurants right on the beach (the octopus are freshly caught and barbecued in front of you) and others along the street that flanks it. Moreover, the rocky coastline provides daredevils with the chance to fling themselves off the cliff edges (the water is very deep) as the spectators look on in disbelief.
Five: Las Negras, Costa Almería
Cabo de Gata in the south-eastern corner of Andalucía is pretty much a beach-goer’s paradise; there are too many beaches to count, most are protected against land developers and they are often very difficult to reach too! As a result, there are no ugly high rises spoiling the view, no empty beer bottles rolling around on the floor and – best of all – hardly anyone about.
Las Negras is one of the area’s busier spots, and by ‘busy’, I mean a couple of hundred people, a few empty holiday homes, a campsite, a single supermarket, a handful of restaurants and the odd bar where you can relax into the night. Perfect for a quiet beach holiday, really.
The village gets its name from the dark, volcanic rock sediments in the sand. The campsite to the east (when facing the sea) of town is an ideal place to stay if you’re on a budget.
Interesting fact: Much of Cabo de Gata has been used in Hollywood blockbuster films in the past, such as Mónsul beach, a secluded seaside with a large, distinctive, half-submerged chunk of volcanic rock in its shallow waters. It was here that the plane chase in Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade was filmed, during which Sean Connery manages to scare away a flock of seagulls by wafting air at them with his umbrella from at least 50ft away, causing a Nazi pilot in pursuit to nosedive into the cliff. Impressive or what.